Grape metabolomics and cell cosmetics
Modern, eco-friendly and effective skin care formulations based on natural ingredients has become the key issue in cosmetic industry. It is well known, that grapes are a rich source of many valuable compounds. E-resveratrol, for instance, exhibits several biological activities for health and beauty. As wine production process generates various biomolecule-rich by-products including pomace, leaves or canes, it creates an opportunity to the exploitation of these natural resources of metabolites in cosmetic formulations. France, as the first global wine grower, can take pride of 210 different grape varieties cultivated, of which only 10 covers around 70% of the whole planted area. Thus, the ancient grape cultivars, which in the past decades became extremely rare, occur as particularly interesting sources of the active substances. What is important, grape varietal choice is determinant for developing polyphenol-rich grape extracts. In our studies, we focused of the polyphenolic profiles of unique grape varieties cultivated in the Loire Valley. Metabolomics screening involves the analysis and data integration of all the metabolites present in the sample based on high-throughput, multivariate data. Basing on the results obtained, we evaluated the cosmetic potential of the selected grape varieties as the multifunctional rejuvenating agents. These sources of grape metabolites exhibit various biological activities including skin whitening potential, strong antioxidant activity and the delaying of cellular senescence. The confirmed biological effect was additionally supplemented with the evaluation of the bioavailability and skin permeability of the extracts key metabolites. Importantly, the results allowed for the initiation of in vitro cell cultures of the selected rare grape varieties for their future utilisation in innovative skin care formulations.
Dr Magdalena Malinowska,
LE STUDIUM GUEST RESEARCH FELLOW