Dr Magdalena Malinowska

Nationality
Poland
Programme
COSMETOSCIENCES (ARD CVL)
Scientific Field
Period
October, 2019 - October, 2020
January, 2024 - March, 2024
Award
LE STUDIUM Research Fellowship

From

Cracow University of Technology - PL

In residence at

Biomolecule and Plant Biotechnology (BBV), University of Tours - FR

Host scientist

Dr Arnaud Lanoue

Biography

Dr Magdalena Malinowska works as an Assistant Professor at the Faculty of Chemical Engineering and Technology at Cracow University of Technology. She has the expertise in organic synthesis, advanced extraction techniques, compounds isolation, purification, and analysis. Dr. Malinowska's research is dedicated to evaluating the biological activity, safety of use and bioavailability of chemical substances and plant extracts. Dr. Malinowska's scientific experience professional portfolio extends also into knowledge in chemical engineering and technology, with a particular emphasis on cosmetic science.

Project (2019-2020)

Grape Metabolomics & Cell Cosmetics

The research project focuses on the metabolomics screening of ancient, rare grape varieties from Loire Valley for the development of plant cell lines producing active cosmetics. The objective is to setup UPLC-DAD-MS/MS-based metabolomics tools to screen a grape germplasm collection from ancient varieties of the Loire Valley (France) to identify varieties with peculiar metabotypes for valorization in cosmetics. The screening includes  sample harvesting from  different  organs and  varieties  as  well  as metabolomics  analysis  targeted  on polyphenols followed by data integration using chemometric tools (PCA, PLS-DA, HCA). Grape varieties of cosmetics interests are selected for plant tissue culturing. 
 

Project (2024)

Metabolomic profiling of the selected grapevine varieties for the evaluation of their cosmetic potential.
 
The research project focuses on the metabolomics screening of grape varieties obtained from Poland, particularly the fungus-resistant grape varieties, also called PIWI (from german “pilzwiderstandsfähige”). The objective of the research is the polyphenol profiling of the extracts, the evaluation of their multidirected biological activity and the indication of the crucial metabolites which determine their cosmetic potential. UPLC-DAD-MS/MS-based metabolomics tools will be used to identify the grape varietes and organs with the most beneficial metabotypes for the application in skin care products. The final step of the research will cover the development of novel cosmetic formulation containing the selected grape extracts as well as the evaluation of its physicochemical properties and quality.
 
 
 

Events organised by this fellow

Publications in relation with the research project

Publications

Magdalena Anna Malinowska
Kévin Billet
Samantha Drouet
Thibaut Munsch
Marianne Unlubayir
Duangjai Tungmunnithum
Nathalie Giglioli-Guivarc’h
Christophe Hano
Arnaud Lanoue
:

Grape canes are waste biomass of viticulture containing bioactive polyphenols valuable in cosmetics. Whereas several studies reported the cosmetic activities of E-resveratrol, only few described the potential of E-ε-viniferin, the second major constituent of grape cane extracts (GCE), and none of them investigated GCE as a natural blend of polyphenols for cosmetic applications. In this study, we considered the potential of GCE from polyphenol-rich grape varieties as multifunctional cosmetic ingredients. HPLC analysis was performed to quantify major polyphenols in GCE i.e., catechin, epicatechin, E-resveratrol, E-piceatannol, ampelopsin A, E-ε-viniferin, hopeaphenol, isohopeaphenol, E-miyabenol C and E-vitisin B from selected cultivars. Skin whitening potential through tyrosinase inhibition assay and the activation capacity of cell longevity protein (SIRT1) of GCE were compared to pure E-resveratrol and E-ε-viniferin. Drug-likeness of GCE polyphenols were calculated, allowing the prediction of skin permeability and bioavailability. Finally, the present data enabled the consideration of GCE from polyphenol-rich varieties as multifunctional cosmetic ingredients in accordance with green chemistry practices.