Grape Cane Extracts as Multifunctional Rejuvenating Cosmetic Ingredient: Evaluation of Sirtuin Activity, Tyrosinase Inhibition and Bioavailability Potential

Molecules 2020, 25(9), 2203

Magdalena Anna Malinowska1,2, Kévin Billet1, Samantha Drouet3, Thibaut Munsch1, Marianne Unlubayir1, Duangjai Tungmunnithum3,4, Nathalie Giglioli-Guivarc’h1, Christophe Hano3 and Arnaud Lanoue1

 

1 EA 2106 Biomolécules et Biotechnologies Végétales, UFR des Sciences Pharmaceutiques, Universitéde Tours,31 av. Monge, F37200 Tours, France

2 Faculty of Chemical Engineering and Technology, Cracow University of Technology, 24 Warszawska St.,31-155 Cracow, Poland

3 Laboratoire de Biologie des Ligneux et des Grandes Cultures, INRA USC1328, Universitéde Orléans,Pôle Universitaire d’Eure et Loire, 21 rue de Loigny-la-Bataille, F28000 Chartres, France

4 Department of Pharmaceutical Botany, Faculty of Pharmacy, Mahidol University, Bangkok 10400, Thailand

Abstract

Grape canes are waste biomass of viticulture containing bioactive polyphenols valuable in cosmetics. Whereas several studies reported the cosmetic activities of E-resveratrol, only few described the potential of E-ε-viniferin, the second major constituent of grape cane extracts (GCE), and none of them investigated GCE as a natural blend of polyphenols for cosmetic applications. In this study, we considered the potential of GCE from polyphenol-rich grape varieties as multifunctional cosmetic ingredients. HPLC analysis was performed to quantify major polyphenols in GCE i.e., catechin, epicatechin, E-resveratrol, E-piceatannol, ampelopsin A, E-ε-viniferin, hopeaphenol, isohopeaphenol, E-miyabenol C and E-vitisin B from selected cultivars. Skin whitening potential through tyrosinase inhibition assay and the activation capacity of cell longevity protein (SIRT1) of GCE were compared to pure E-resveratrol and E-ε-viniferin. Drug-likeness of GCE polyphenols were calculated, allowing the prediction of skin permeability and bioavailability. Finally, the present data enabled the consideration of GCE from polyphenol-rich varieties as multifunctional cosmetic ingredients in accordance with green chemistry practices.

Keywords

grape cane extracts
natural ingredients
polyphenols
E-resveratrol
E-ε-viniferin
sirtuin activation
tyrosinase inhibition
drug-likeness
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